The Tsaatans, also known as Dukhas, are more commonly referred to in Mongolia as Uriankhai. They are considered a people rather than just an ethnicity, with origins intertwined with the history of Mongolia and other Central Asian groups. In Mongolia, Dukhas are commonly called Tsaatans, which means "those who live with reindeer" or "reindeer herders," with *Tsaa* being the Mongolian (or Uyghur) term for reindeer. The Tsaatans live in the far north of the country, above the Darkhad Depression, in the red taiga.
This is more than just a journey—it's a genuine immersion, an initiation into the heart of the red taiga. It's difficult to put into words this unique experience in Tsaatan territory, where human and nature are seamlessly intertwined, a world where nature almost overshadows humanity. This is a realm where only the Tsaatans live, in perfect harmony with the "elements."
Autumn is the ideal time to enter this world. The Tsaatans have recently moved closer to the village where their children attend school. They are now just a day's horseback ride from the village, whereas in summer, it would take at least three long days to reach them.
Autumn is also—and above all—about "autumn colors." The trees don vibrant hues of yellow, red, brown, and many other shades, creating a magical moment.
Tsaatans
The Tsaatan people, proud and freedom-loving, have certainly been among the most affected by Soviet dominance, kolkhozes, and purges.
Today, about 50 families live in the northern and western taiga of Mongolia, in the Khuvsgul aimag (province), on the borders of Mongolia and Russia. They are divided into two main groups.
Far from the image of "noble savages" on the brink of extinction, the Tsaatans lead a harsh but chosen life, remaining true to their origins and culture. They are deeply connected to their taiga and are constantly in search of better grazing grounds to provide their reindeer with the necessary lichen for their diet, seeking the coolest and coldest spots to ensure their herds thrive under the best conditions.
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