Nomadic Life: Living in a Yurt
Nomadic life is both peaceful and fulfilling, with daily tasks flowing naturally and the concept of time revolving around the seasons rather than hours.
In Mongolia, nomadism differs somewhat from what is often imagined in other countries. For example, in Africa, pastoralist families move in search of new or better grazing lands, influenced by the seasons and weather. In Mongolia, while nomadism is indeed tied to the seasons, it is also intricately linked to the management of steppes and pastures, which are organized around villages, known as "soum" in Mongolian. Each family typically has three camps—though this can vary by region: a summer camp, an autumn camp (which often doubles as a spring camp), and a winter camp.
One reason for this administrative organization may trace back to the Soviet era, when nomadism was "controlled," if not outright prohibited, in favor of collective farms or kolkhozes.
However, this pasture management system still seems logical today, given that despite the country's vastness, the steppes are not endless and herds continue to grow larger.
Each family thus has its designated camps, and the management of these spaces depends on the number of livestock. Consequently, the rhythm of nomadic life revolves around their camps and gers.
### Inside the Yurt: Traditional Life with a Modern Twist
Under the yurt, life is organized much as it was many years ago, with only a few modern items reflecting contemporary influences. A television, prominently placed on one of the wooden chests at the back of the yurt, a refrigerator for the summer, a washing machine, all powered by solar energy, and the ever-present smartphone are the primary modern touches.
Despite this apparent modernization, the interior of the ger (yurt) is arranged according to ancestral culture, with traditional symbols still present in this living space.
The ger's door is always oriented south, facing the sun. Upon entering, the right side is designated as the "women's corner," which serves as the kitchen. This is one reason why it is customary never to enter a yurt from the right side; others say it is related to the sun's rotation.
In practice, one always enters from the left side, ensuring to step in with the right foot and avoid stepping on or touching the threshold with the foot.
Immediately to the left upon entering is the water point—a container or small sink.
Generally, the yurt is divided into two main areas. To the left, just past the small sink, is the men's corner, where all items related to masculine activities are kept, such as saddles, branding irons, hunting rifles, and the bag for preparing airag (koumiss). To the right is the women's corner, where kitchen items, water containers, and the storage cupboard are found. On this cupboard sits the traditional and essential teapot, which the housewife regularly fills with milk tea (suutei tsai).
Beds are positioned on either side of the ger. On the north side, facing the door, is the place of honor. Flanking it are two wooden chests used for storage, where the family's valuables are kept. On one chest, there is a prayer altar and other symbolic items, such as family photos, while the other features the indispensable TV.
In the center, between the two poles supporting the "tono" (the crown around which the roof is structured), is the wood stove. This is a central element of life in the yurt, used both for heating and cooking. It is the focus of much attention as it houses the sacred fire.
One of the major taboos in the ger (yurt) is to never pass between the two central supporting poles.
From the center of the tono, a rope made of horsehair hangs, often adorned or protected with a red cloth tassel. This is the Chagtaga, or "life rope," which carries significant symbolic meaning and is surrounded by deep respect. It is carefully interlaced under the rafters, always on the right side of the yurt.
The Chagtaga was traditionally used, and can still be used, to anchor the yurt during violent storms by attaching weights to it. In the face of strong winds, the tono (the crown of the roof) could lift by a few centimeters, which might cause the rafters that hold up the roof to collapse, leading to the destruction of the yurt and putting its occupants in grave danger, potentially even leading to death during a winter storm.
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